To Sofia and Beyond

14th August

A really lovely train journey from Nis to Sofia, the scenery wonderful: sat next to an ancient old lady in black who chuntered on to me in Serbian for the whole way. She did a Paul Daniels and took out 2 china coffee cups out of her handbag and then poured me a cup of cold coffee from a bottle from the same bag! She was sooo sweet.
The Balkan Railways are very ancient but wonderful. The railway stations don’t always have a platform and you have to jump onto them from the track, quite an art with a backpack. The tracks are usually overgrown with weeds and the stations have ancient trusty old steam locomotives just standing around. On arrival at the station the train wheels are still checked by wheeltappers and any train maintenance is done on the platform. When you go to catch your train it has normally been sitting in the station for an hour, so it’s quite easy to find the train you need ... AND THEY RUN ON TIME. It’s got to be one of the best ways to see a country and meet people.

15th August

Arrived in Sofia, capital of Bulgaria. It’s a big cosmopolitan city, very modern and chic, a huge contrast to Serbia. I met up with Ivailo, a big strapping cartoonist with a beard and long hair (they do like their rock music out here!). Ivailo was the perfect gentle man and host. He took me to the newspaper office of DUMA, the leading political newspaper in Bulgaria. I was shown round office and introduced to other cartoonists and staff. We then went down to staff canteen for some food, beer and brandy. ( NOTE; in Bulgaria shaking heads means Yes and nodding means No. This could get a girl into a lot of trouble; and I think I had more drinks than planned!) The military correspondent of the newspaper asked me if I knew any British commandos! I had to disappoint him and say no; but my dad had been in the RAF. He then asked me if he was a Spitfire pilot! Had to disappoint him again and tell him he was an electrician. Then he asked me if I would do some cartoons for their newspaper. The afternoon continued with the 'socializing', we then caught a bus to another pub where the Cartoonists had rearranged their week to have their Cartoonists meeting on the night I was there, so I then met up with another crowd of cartoonists, including a very charming and talented lady cartoonist called Svetla Hristova. The cartoonists were a lively bunch and very generously gave me some cartoon books.

16th August

IIvailo and I met up again and he took me for a tour round Sofia. We visited St Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and the National Gallery. In the evening I joined him with some friends at a café.

17/8/05

I met up with Ivailo again. We visited another newspaper office where the newspaper boss gave me a gift box with a keying and lighter. I got more cartoon books and I gave them my cartoons for the newspaper. They then dropped me off at the Station and we said our goodbyes.
There were problems with the trains due to severe flooding so I eventually caught a bus to Plovdiv.

18th August

Stayed at cheap hotel painted throughout in orange! It HAS to be seen!
Walked around Plovdiv town centre and explored the Old Town.

20th August

Met up with Nik Arndauv and his lovely Daughter who acted as translator. Went down to the local newspaper and gave them an interview about the Toontrek Project. In the afternoon I did more exploring around the town
In the evening I was collected by Nik, his charming wife and daughter and lively son, Richie, and went into town for a meal at a restaurant followed by a walkabout.

21st August

Went out with Nik and family. Visited a Sports Complex, walked around a lake and had a drink. Lots of chatting and laughing, especially at my own published cartoons in the paper. In the afternoon I found a post office and posted the newspaper to my Dad.

22nd August

Caught a train down to Varna by the Black Sea. It’s a lovely place, sandy beaches, sun, cheap food and a lovely little hotel. Might slob here for a couple of days and work on my pasty body - Oh, it’s a hard life, this cartooning on the run!

Sue